 Index |
Articles |
Freshwater StylesUpdated during April, 2024. |
 |
Warning! This article includes personal opinions and speculations!
Introduction to freshwater styles:There are different styles of keeping freshwater aquariums and ponds. Several main styles are based on different ways of thinking, that follow different philosophies and aim towards different goals. The main styles may focus on different aspects, on how to run the aquarium, on what inhabits the aquarium, and/or how the habitats are set up. The main styles can be further divided into several branch styles, that may be more, or less, extreme. Some of the branch styles share parallel commonality traits, with branch styles from other main styles, and/or may sometimes be identical, making those branch styles part of more than one main style, in a multidimensional web of styles. Aquarists may also choose to make their own combination styles.
Parts of the ideologies from more than one main style, and/or branch style, can sometimes be combined inside the same aquarium,
and/or using several connected aquariums, sumps, refugiums, special filtration Most freshwater styles usually have substrate/sand/gravel on the bottom, but there are exceptions. There are some filterless freshwater styles, but most freshwater styles use one, or more, types of filters, for example:
· External canister filters. Different types of filters have their uses, in the hobby and the industry.
Streamers, wavemakers and airstones in addition to filters, or as an alternative to filters,
may also be used if the inhabitants prefer more water circulation and highly oxygenated water.
Unfiltered freshwater styles with stagnant water also have their places.
Most freshwater styles, usually, do not use capped dirt, but
If it works, it's not an issue about who's doing it right, or who's doing it wrong. It's about recognizing that there are lots of different ways to do something. In some situations it is possible to combine different freshwater styles. Aquarists and other aquarium keepers/observers have different personalites and experiences. There are lots of different combinations of freshwater styles, that have potential to work, that can provide a healthy environment to live in, for fishes (and/or other inhabitants) to thrive. Some aquarists are set in their ways and go all in with one style, or a few similar/compatible styles. Other aquarists remain much more open and like to use different styles for different projects, but it is still common for most aquarists to have one, or a few, favorite styles. Usually, something (either good, or bad) may happen,
that from that point forward sets a psycological personal preference/obsession etc.
This may last a lifetime in some people, or maybe only a short period of time,
depending on the individual person's personality and what events may continue to develop.
Interaction with other aquarists, visiting public aquariums, viewing impactful aquaristic videos, and/or reading aquarium books and so on,
may either change, or confirm, your choice of favorite freshwater styles.
All freshwater styles don't work for everyone, on all occasions, in every circumstance. There are plenty of examples of people with bad experiences, from trying one, or several, freshwater styles. Such experiences, that unfortunately ended badly for them, often make those people afraid, and/or repulsed, by all similar freshwater styles, and/or the entire hobby and industry. In redeemable cases, some people may try other freshwater styles, or get some good advice from someone. Perhaps, those people may do a lot better with those other freshwater styles, or the advice may help them to succeed in becoming happy aquarists. However, in less fortunate cases, the people may give up, become bitter and, perhaps, start spreading uncompromising anti petkeeping propaganda. It is human nature to blame the freshwater styles when things go wrong, but sometimes its more of a compatibility issue, or an accident. Such issues and disasters may, or may not, have been preventable, and/or predictable, with common sense, and/or long time experience. The various issues and disasters may be related to, for example:
Choosing one, or more, freshwater styles that are highly compatible with your local circumstances, your way of life and your personality, can help you succeed and feel more motivated as an aquarist and as a person. I suggest to ask yourself:
Warning! Some species/genera are banned/restricted, in several countries in the world and several states in the USA. Before acquiring fishes, other animals, or plants, make sure they are legal to keep in the part of the world where you live. Related external links and references to this chapter:
The chapters below describe examples of various freshwater styles. |
Killitank styles:Some killies may be kept in community aquariums, but most species of killies are best kept one species to each tank. Most killifish enhusiasts develop multiple tank syndrome (MTS). Breeders can send eggs through the "snailmail" to each other. Spawning mops, made from acrylic yarn and a floating cork (or a piece of styrofoam), is commonly used for breeding killies in captivity. The killies may also choose to spawn among the plants, peat, leaves, or coconut husk fibers etc. It is strongly recommended that the tanks should be covered somehow, to prevent the killies from jumping out. A few of the commonly available killies in pet stores: · Blue lyretail (Fundulopanchax gardneri) Killitank branch styles:
Related external links and references to this chapter:
|
Biotype, biotopy, or environment type styles:Please, notice the letter "y" in the words biotype and biotopy. There is confusion about exactly what to call this niche of naturalistic environment type concept. The words and terms to describe this concept in English are not fully mainstream popularized and fixed yet. Unfortunately, the words to call this concept in English and other languages can be very confusing. It is because of other biological meanings of the same words and also other words that sound almost the same. The concept of a biotype aquarium is similar in many ways to a biotope aquarium. Biotype aquariums are very often confused with a biotope aquariums. Probably, only a minority of aquarists are aware of the concept of biotype aquariums and the geographical limitations of biotope aquariums. Many people confuse them, including many great aquarists and biologists. A biotype aquarium may, perhaps, also be called:
· Biotopy aquarium. In a biotype aquarium, or whatever you prefer to call it, atleast the majority of the fishes and plants should preferably originate from a similar type of water habitat in the wild, with similar type of water parameters and a generally similar naturalistic ecological habitat niche environment type theme. If they do not originate from such an environment, it may still be allowed to include them as replacements, if they look, and/or behave, somewhat similar to other species that may live in the type of environment you want to simulate/emulate. The idea is to stock and decorate a biotype aquarium in a way so that it shares some similarities with a biotope aquarium, even though it may not officially be eligible to be called a biotope aquarium, or does not stricty follow biotope aquascaping competition rules. A biotype aquarium may suffer severe point deduction, or disqualification, as penalty for geographically linked deviations, if submitted to a biotope aquascaping competition. If it would not suffer any such point deduction, or disqualification, then it would be qualified to be called a biotope aquarium and it is then recommended to call it that, instead of a biotype aquarium, since a biotype aquarium is less distinctly geographically defined, compared to a biotope aquarium. There is no definite requirement for a biotype aquarium to look good (aesthetically pleasing to the eye), but there is also no rule against it, so each aquarist is free to choose either way. The purpose of a biotype aquarium may differ depending on your priorities. If the goal happen to include having a beautifully planted layout, a biotype aquarium may share many commonalities with a nature aquarium, planted aquascape style. It is possible for a biotype aquarium to also be a nature aquarium. However, a biotype aquarium may not always use aquarium plants, especially if it is intended to mimick an environment type that may perhaps be without plants in the wild. If the main purpose of the biotype aquarium is to breed fishes, their natural spawning behaviour may get triggered, thanks to the similar conditions in the biotype aquarium compared to their natural environment in the wild. In a biotype aquarium there is not much emphasis on whatever actual geographical position the inhabitants, or decoration (such as plants, wood, various botanicals, rocks, sand and gravel), originate from, unless you yourself choose to limit yourself to make it so. Fishes, plants, amphibians, invertebrates, botanicals (and so on) can be mixed, if they all originate from a general type of natural habitat environment, that somewhat resemble each other's natural environment, even if they originate from different rivers, lakes, or continents. Even if the organisms may be endemic to different locations in nature, if the natural habitats in the different locations have enough similarities, it is allowed to put the organisms together in a biotype aquarium in captivity, if they are otherwise compatible enough in general. If you so choose, you can still optionally limit yourself to a specific continent, lake, river system, or other general broad geographical zone, but the idea with a biotype aquarium is that the inhabitants and decorations do not need to originate from the same exact location. It is your own choice, if you voluntarily want to limit yourself geographically (and if so, to what extent, or if you allow a few exceptions), or if you prefer to remain free of such constraints, when setting up and stocking a biotype aquarium. For example, in a very big lake there are probably many distinctly separated habitats, with populations av organisms isolated in specific parts of the lake. In a biotype aquarium, it is permissible to mix species, and/or local population variants, from different parts of the lake, that do not naturally live together in the same exact habitat location in the wild. It is ok to mix fishes from different biotopes in a biotype aquarium, as long as they originate from a generally similar type of environment. A few exceptions can also be allowed, to accomodate fishes that may not fit this profile, as long as they can still adapt to live and thrive in the conditions present in a specific biotype aquarium. The environment in a biotype aquarium should, preferably, somewhat visually resemble that same mutual general type of natural environment.
There is no geographical emphasis on the origin of the sand, gravel, wood, and/or other decorations.
Parameters such as the temperature, waterflow and general environment type can be important. It is possibe to mix tropical and subtropical species, but it is generally not recommended. Most subtropical species have adapted to a cool season during part of the year, as part of the cycle of the seasons, but subtropical species can usually coexist with tropical species, in warm conditions, during the warm season, if there is high enough oxygen gas O2 concentration in the water. Without chilly water for part of the year, subtropical species may suffer various ailments and behavioral consequenses. It may depend on the exact species, gender and age, what they may become susceptible to, but it may eventually include reproduction related problems, higher risk of contracting diseases and shortened lifespan etc. However, some species that were originally subtropical have been raised in tropical conditions on fishfarms, or may have lived as feral populations in tropical environments, for many generations. This may lead to them partially adapting/evolving to survive in tropical conditions. The same can be said for species with a broad natural distribution range, that may span both tropical and subtropical environments, since there may be local adaptations, within the species. Local adaptations may lead to individuals in those populations becoming better suited to living in the local conditions. Populations of migratory species may also be generally more accomodating to changing different conditions, than populations of isolated stationary species. General environment types could be, for example:
· Fast flowing stream in tropical environment type. Example of an environment type set up, with geographically mixed origin: Loosely based on a generic slow flowing river with driftwood in tropical environment.
Populated with various river dwelling fishes, originating from Central Asia, West Africa, Eastern Australia and South America.
Planted with plants from Southern Europe and Cental America.
The smooth gravel/sand on the bottom may come from the country where you live.
Decorated with driftwood from North America and rocks from South East Asia.
Warning! Biotype aquariums are, unfortunately, almost always "inaccurately" labeled as biotope aquariums. This confusion is widespread, but especially common when a biotype aquarium is inspired by a specific biotope, lake, or river system. Most of the fishes may come from generally the same geographical area. However, unless ALL of the specific fishes in the aquarium can actually be found living naturally together in the wild, preferably before modern humans started moving fishes all around the world (leading to local changes and establishing invasive feral populations etc.), it is not really a biotope aquarium, from a strict point of view. Even if all fishes accurately originate from the same place, if ALL the species of plants used in the same aquarium can't also be found in the same specific place in nature as those fishes, then the aquarium is still not really a biotope aquarium. If the hardscape materials used to scape the aquarium does not at all visually resemble what can be found in the same natural biotope, that the fishes and plants originate from, it is also questionable if the aquarium is eligible to be called a biotope aquarium. A partially specialized biotype aquarium may, perhaps, be described as:
· Biotope inspired biotype aquarium. Related external links and references to this chapter:
|
Hardscape only aquascape styles:In my opinion, a hardscape only aquascape is an aquascape that is designed to look good, like a work of art, without showing living submersed grown plants. Usually, naural materials such as rocks, sand, gravel and driftwood can be used, but there is leeway for using artificial replacements. The materials are carefully chosen, to create a harmonious visual appearance combined together. It is highly preferable to choose only one general type of rock, where all rocks are matching in structure and color, but vary in size. Optionally, inanimate botanicals may be incorporated, such as leaf litter, alder cones, bamboo pipes etc. Aquarium Design Group (ADG) is a company in Texas, USA. Aquascapers from ADG has taken their vision, of a hardscape only aquascape style, into the extreme in reality. ADG made a world wide impact and started influencing the aquascaping community, ever since the first photos from some of their work, using the concept of a hardscape only aquascape style, were published. To plant enthusiasts, a hardscape only aquascape may at first glance seem like an unfinished aquascape.
Many aquascapers may have their green thumb itching to put plants in such an aquascape.
However, if a hardscape only aquascape is designed properly, that urge may subside, somewhat,
after looking at the hardscape only aquascape for a while and properly feeling and appreciating the basic raw hardscape only wibe.
Plastic plants, and/or other plastic decrations, are up for debate. Plastic decorations may, or may not, be considered to be hardscape, depending on your point of view. However, if plastic plants are used, it will no longer be a "pure" hardscape only aquascape style, but a mixed combination variant with the plastic fintastic styles. Sometimes, ADG may publish photos, and/or videos, of more than one version of almost the same aquarium aquacape. One version may show how it looks without the use of any plastic plants (hardscape only aquascape), but then an other version shows how it can look with plastic plants. Sometimes, ADG may show multiple versions, of how the general impression of the aquascape may change, using different colors of the plastic plants in different photos. In practicality, it also makes sense to be able to change the optional plastic plants whenever you want, but keep the hardscape intact, perhaps to change the aquascape in tune with seasonal changes throughout the year, or adapting the aquascape to a client's wish, and/or matching the colors of the surrounding room, at a specific location. If you are ok with using a mix of artifical and natural hardscape materials, other than plants,
it is also possible to combine hardscape only aquascapes with artificial backgrounds, and/or inserts, either
Emersed living plants are also up for debate, since they may, perhaps, only have their roots somewhere in the system. (Making it an aquaponics system.) It may be "cheating" and not a "pure" hardscape only aquascape style, to use live plants with roots in the water, but it is a great way to remove nitrates and phosphates from the system. If you do not want the live plant roots visible in the aquarium, it is possible to hide and, optionally, keep them in a separate tank, for example in a sump. Theoretically, you could also keep submersed plants, or floating plants, in an other tank, but connected to the hardscape only aquascape, to help remove nitrates and phosphates. Algae scrubbers may also be an alternative means of extracting nutrients from the water, although algae scrubbers are more commonly used in marine saltwater setups, they can also be used in freshwater. Hardscape only aquascapes often use various algae eaters to keep the algae growth in check,
but may also have subdued light, compared to planted aquariums.
More frequent water changes, and/or carefully chosen aquarium algaecides,
may be used with caution (for spot treatment, and/or dilluted in the whole aquarium),
if algae, and/or cyano bacteria, becomes a big problem.
Using some type of The bioload from the inhabitants, in a hardscape only aquascape aquarium, may increase the nitrates into dangerous levels faster,
compared to the exact same bioload in a planted aquarium, where the plants consume nitrates.
There is a risk involved, if you do not want to do frequent, and/or large, waterchanges,
or use other means to regulary, or continiously, remove nitrates from the system in a hardscape only aquascape aquarium.
It is recommended to keep the bioload down to a manageable level, for example, by generally keeping a lower number of individual fishes,
or choosing smaller fishes, in the same volume of water, compared to a planted aquarium.
Some people may instead choose to go with a bigger aquarium, to still be able to keep their desired number and sizes of fishes,
since a large Some positive aspects of a hardscape only aquascapes, without any type of live plants (not even their roots) inside the aquascaped aquarium:
Related external links and references to this chapter:
|
Dirted aquarium styles:Waterlogged dirt (soil), that preferably (but not necessarily) has been mixed with a carefully selected recipe of various nutritious compounds,
is placed and spread out on the bottom of the aquarium, then The layer above the waterlogged dirt/dirtmix, that is used for Exactly the best grain size and the thickness of layer of the cap is up for debate, but normal coarse sand is generally recommended. Very fine sand, or fine sand, may cause smothering of plant roots, but the smaller grain size of very fine sand, or fine sand, also allows the cap to be thinner and still do its job, compared to a cap layer of coarse sand, or very coarse sand, or very fine gravel. The definition of sand varies depending on what definition system is used, so what I call very fine gravel may, perhaps, also be called extremely coarse sand, or granules, by someone else. It is easier if the cap is made of sand, than of gravel, if you want/need to uproot plants every now and then, since you probably prefer to avoid making a dirty mess in the water. Uprooting the plants may be needed if you want to give them away, selling them, or simply moving/removing them, as they grow and multiply. Only using coarse gravel pebbles, without mixing the pebbles with something else, is not recommended as a cap! Water and dirt/dirtmix may sift, percolate and permeate way too fast between the coarse gravel pebbles. (This makes dissolved nutrients and organic material move too quickly by trickling, or sifting, in the water space channels inside the cap.) If you still want some pebbles, it is recommended to fill in most of the water space channels, in between the pebbles, with additional sand, and/or with very fine gravel. This will help with preventing the dirt/dirtmix and dissolved nutrients from traveling upwards too fast, and also to hinder oxygen gas O2 and uneaten food scraps from traveling downwards too fast. The choice of specific grain size and specific type, of the material used as the cap, may also depend on the preferences of the species of rooted plants and the chosen fishes and invertebrates in the aquarium. Generally, the waterlogged dirt layer is normally suggested to be about one inch (about two to three cm) thick. You can get away with a thinner layer of waterlogged dirt, if you do not plan to keep the aquarium going for more than about a year. However, if you want most of the nutrients in the waterlogged dirt to last for several years, or maybe decades, it is recommended to use a waterlogged dirt layer of normal thickness. You probably want to have a slightly thicker layer of waterlogged dirt in the back of the aquarium, compared to the front of the aquarium. This is because you are more likely to plant the largest rooted plants, that probably benefit the most from the nutrients, in the back of the dirted tank. It is also visually appealing to have the cap sloaping down towards the front of the dirted tank. Some aquarists put the waterlogged dirt into fine mesh filter bags, or put a sheet of fine mesh (mosquito mesh made of plastic) between the waterlogged dirt and the cap. This may help keep the dirt separated if they expect to make significant changes in the future, such as maybe moving the aquarium, or exchanging the cap, or exchanging the dirt/dirtmix. Mesh may also help, somewhat, to keep most of the dirt/dirtmix in place, if some inhabitant suddenly diggs a hole in the cap. Generally, the cap is suggested to be approximately:
A rule of thumb is to have a cap that is atleast twice as deep/thick as the waterlogged dirt layer on the same spot in the tank. If you have chosen to make the waterlogged dirt layer deeper/thicker at the back inside of an aquarium, it is logical to also make the cap deeper/thicker there, while making the cap shallower/thinner in the front, creating a slope. It is common to avoid putting waterlogged dirt all the way to the front panel, to avoid needing a deep/thick cap layer visible in the front. If the dirt under the cap is more nutrient rich than normal, you should make the cap generally deeper/thicker than normal. Alternatevely, if the dirt under the cap is relatively low in nutrients (lean soil), the cap can be made generally slightly shallower/thinner than previously suggested. However, you should also consider the lenght of the roots of the specific plants you intend to use, since the longer and more massive the roots of the plants may grow, the deeper/thicker the cap should be, to accomodate those roots. The more/faster water circulation you have in the tank, the deeper/thicker the cap should be. The more disturbance from fishes and other animals digging/burrowing in the cap, the deeper/thicker the cap should be. The more often you intend to uproot and move plants from the cap, the deeper/thicker the cap should be. If you are unsure if a shallow/thin cap, or a thick/deep cap is optimal for your system, for example if you use a mixture of different sized silt/sand/gravel as the cap, or have difficulty estimating the concentration of nutrients is in the dirt, it is (generally) better to add a bit more to the cap to be on the safe side, than accidentally making it too shallow/thin, to prevent dirt related problems from occuring. Having the cap be deeper/thicker than necessary will, unfortunately, slightly decrease the water volume in the system, while also adding more weight to the system and may also look a bit unsightly. To compensate for the water volume that is lost from accomodating the dirt and the cap, you may want to use a slightly taller aquarium, compared to other freshwater styles, to end up with the same amount of swimming space and water volume left for the inhabitants and decorations etc. The cost to buy bags of the material for the cap may also be an issue, if you don't have access to a free/cheap, source. A deep/thick enough cap prevents excessive oxygen gas O2 in the open water column from reaching down into the dirt/dirtmix. This creates an anaerobic and anoxic environment in the dirt/dirtmix. Anoxic and anaerobic microbial life forms live in the dirt/dirtmix. Rooted plants can use their roots to extract dissolved nutrients, that slowly and continiously perculate into the cap from the dirt/dirtmix below the cap. The cap prevents excessive nutrients from leaking directly up into the water column above the cap. This prevents algae and cyano bacteria, above the cap, from directly being able to take advantage of the nutrients from the dirt/dirtmix, creating a clear advantage to the rooted plants. Normally, the rooted plants should initially be planted only in the cap, not in the layer of dirt/dirtmix. If a very nutrient rich dirtmix is used (that should be combined with a deep/thick cap), then any plants that have been planted with their roots directly into that very nutrient rich dirtmix, will most likely soon begin to rot and turn black from their roots and up. Some people still choose to plant the roots of the plants directly in the dirt, but this usually only works if very lean soil/dirt and a very shallow/thin cap is used. This is not normally a recommended way of doing dirted tanks for a display tank, since with a very shallow cap and plants rooted in the very lean soil/dirt, it will create an unsightly dirty mess in the system when doing normal plant maintenance, whenever that requires uprooting some of the plants. However, if your main goal is not to create a beautiful display tank, but instead is only to raise plants and you do not care about how dirty the tank looks, or if you are willing to siphon, and/or use a net to scoop out the dislodged dirt, it may still be a valid option. Dirted aquarium styles are also known as dirted tanks, Walstad tanks, Walstad style, or the Father Fish (Louis Foxwell) and other aquarists have made adjustments and continue to try to make improvements, while spreading their tips, personal conclusions and opinions on the Internet about dirted tanks. Some people that have been greatly inspired by Father Fish and strictly follow his advice when setting up dirted tanks, may sometimes call it using the Father Fish style. Often, part of the goal of this kind of setup is to let the aquarium develop a food web and let it mostly take care of itself. It will become like a diverse miniature eco system, a slice of nature, with a diverse microfauna (many different tiny critters and microscopic animals), similar to a natural body of water outside in nature. Fallen leaves and pieces of wood may be added to the dirted aquarium, if you aim for a biotope, or biotype, that requires it. Usually, it doesn't need much maintenance and can go for long periods of time without feeding. Fish fry and small fishes, usually, find lots of small living organisms to eat in dirted aquariums, making it easier to raise fish fry into juveniles, without having to very frequently feed the fish fry yourself, as long as you don't overpopulate the tank. Aquarists with dirted aquariums, that have comparatively low fish bioload, usually only top up water, to replace the water that evaporates. They normally try to avoid doing actual water changes, or only do small partial water changes sparingly. Some dirted aquarium keepers may occasionally do a waterchange, usually with rainwater, or RO/DI water, to trigger some fishes to spawn. Dirted aquarium keepers, usually, prioritize enjoyment and naturalistic stable aquariums, with less maintenance work, compared to aquarists who prefer most other styles. Some aquarists keep many dirted aquariums, since each aquarium doesn't require much time, or effort, to maintain. Dirted aquarium keepers may get more time to enjoy their aquariums, when they feel like it, but mostly sit back and relax, or periodically get busy with other time demanding things in their life, without having to feel guilty, compared to other aquarium keepers using other freswater styles that, usually, require a stricter maintenance schedule to work. It is possible to add additional filtration, aeration and/or circulation of the water in a dirted aquarium. It is a personal choice how much technology each aquarist want to use, if any. Some dirted aquarists choose to try to avoid advanced technology and rely on nature as much as possible. This is especially the case in locations where the local electricity power grid is not always reliable, because of frequent power outages etc. However, adding artifical light on a timer and perhaps some minimal filtration, an airstone, a heater, and/or sometimes connecting several aquariums together, can be benificial depending on the situation. Connecting individual aquariums to each other into a system, if done in a good way, can lead to water quality stability benefits. Warning! In dirted aquariums, I suggest to avoid keeping fishes that are extreme diggers, and/or often burrow themselves very deep into the substrate. Furthermore, if you happen to have circulating water and the cap is made from very fine sand, or fine sand, be careful how you direct the water flow in the tank. The water current may move the very fine sand, or fine sand. This may diminish the thickness of the cap (of very fine sand, or fine sand), above the dirt/dirtmix in certain spots, where the water current is strong. In a bad case, the water flow may excavate a deep crater in the cap and may even expose and dislodge the dirt/dirtmix below the cap. This is not allowed/supposed to happen in a dirted aquarium with a cap. Breaching the cap in this way is unsightly and can potentially create a dangerous situation for the inhabitants in the aquarium. It may cause various problems, especially if dirtmix enriched with concentrated nutrients is used. However, the risks involved during a breach of the cap may be much lower if, instead of very nutrient enriched dirtmix, only very lean potting soil is used, without additional nutrient compounds in the dirt, or if such compounds have only moderately/sparingly been added to the dirtmix. Related external links and references to this chapter:
|
Mud/clay/earthen pond style:Various types of manmade mud ponds have historically been used for aquaculture, agriculture, and/or water reservoirs, for thousands of years. Mud ponds are also known as clay ponds, or earthen ponds. There are also naturally formed mud ponds, that may, or may not, have been significantly modified by humans. Mud ponds may have low visibility, mainly because of algae and stirred up dirt, mulm and mud/clay particles suspended in the water column. If there is driftwood, and/or fallen leaves in the pond, the visibility may also be affected by tannins staining the water. Tiny animals and microbes in the water may also affect visibility to see the fishes. Koi are often grown out in mud ponds, especially in Japan, by koi fish farmers.
Mud ponds are also often used by other fish farmers, either for raising fishes such as carp, tilapia, snakeheads, clarias, panga and
Sometimes the walls of a mud pond may be lined with sandbags,
probably filled with excavated clay, sand, soil and rocks from the same location where the mud pond was constructed.
This helps keeping the structure of the mud pond intact longer from erosion and enables the mud pond to have a steep edge,
beeing much deeper right at the edge of the mud pond, compared to a normal natural mud pond with a gradual slope.
Usually, fish farmers use various modern ponds (not mud ponds) to breed, select and observe the fishes, then after some time, as they run out of valuable space in the modern ponds, they eventually move the fishes to large inexpensive mud ponds, as the fishes grow bigger and bigger. However, fish farmers may also use modern ponds, usually in enclosures, green houses, or indoors, if it gets too cold to use the mud ponds outside during winter. (If a sheet of plastic covering over the mud pond is no longer enough, to preserve enough heat in the water, to support the fishes well being, and/or growth.) Some people use mud ponds for their domesticated ducks, and/or other birds that enjoy water. Some people use mud ponds to store water, then use the water to water gardens, or agricultural fields. Mud ponds can also be dedicated wildlife ponds, often without fishes.
Before making a mud pond, inspect the earth soil/clay composition, the normal groundwater level fluctuations and water chemistry for the location. Make sure the location is suitable for a mud pond, before starting to build the mud pond. If it is not very suitable, it may be better to go with a modern pond style instead. If your water is good, but the earth is not, but you still want a mud pond, you may have to spend more money. Excavating a huge hole, then adding large amounts of clay from somewhere else, may get expensive. You may prefer to "cheat" and simply add a little mud/clay into a modern pond, for the presumed benefits of mud/clay to the inhabitants. An other compromise between a mud pond and a modern pond, is to use a special type of pond liner, that is meant to work together with bentonite clay, instead of a normal pond liner. Warning! Some species are banned/restricted, in several countries in the world and several states in the USA. Before acquiring fishes, other animals, or plants for a pond, make sure they are legal to keep in the part of the world where you live. Related external links and references to this chapter:
|
Modern pond styles:There are people who keep modern ponds and tubs with water outside their home in the garden, or on a patio/balcony, or inside their home, or in a separate room/garage/warehouse/greenhouse, or simply enjoy modern ponds in lobbies, waiting rooms and public parks etc. Modern ponds and various similar contaptions may serve a recreational, ornamental, and/or economical purpose. Aquaculture farms often use modern ponds, vats, water barrels,
and/or repurposed cement vaults (originally for body caskets), and/or
swimming pools, and/or bathtubs, and/or Some aquaculture farms use aquaponics systems, which can both improve water quality for the fishes and increase production of weggies. Among home owners who want an ornamental modern pond in their garden, it is popular to make a recreational aquascaped naturalistic looking water feature with a modern pond, bog and waterfall. Usually, an irregular shaped hole is dug, then some padding is added and a pond liner is put in. The pond liner prevents water in the modern pond from leaking out into the ground. The pond liner also prevents water and dirt in the ground from entering the modern pond. Water may circulated from the modern pond up to a bog with plants, then down a waterfall, back into the pond. Sometimes, a large modern pond with fishes may also serve as a recreational swimming pond, as a replacement instead of a chlorinated swimming pool, although some people may choose to keep both on their property. It is also possible to build a modern pond above ground level. For example, to make a DIY boxpond, a rectangular shaped DIY frame made of wood and marine plywood can be constructed, to hold the pond liner in place and hold back the water pressure from inside. When selecting the wood for a DIY boxpond, make sure there is no infestation of wood eating bugs/larvae, that may bite holes in the pond liner. Some people may use several coatings of fiberglass with varnish and paint, instead of (or in addition to) the pond liner. There are also other types of ponds, such as concrete ponds, or brick/cement ponds, or form pressed hard plastic irregularly shaped ponds, or various tubs, or IBC tanks, or repurposed swimming pools etc. Sometimes a transparent viewing panel may be installed. Pond shops, garden centers and koi dealers usually have various different pond products to choose from. Summer tubbing (summer tubbin') is part of the aquatic lifestyle for some aquarists with a garden, and/or other suitable space outside. Small to medium sized ponds and various tubs and buckets may be used temporarily during the warm months of the year, in some parts of the world with subtropical climate. If it is a location with tropical climate it may be possible to do tubbing outside all year long. It is, usually, possible to breed and grow out fishes, shrimps, snails and plants outside during the summer, even if they do not tolerate the winter season. Just remember to take them inside, and/or sell them, well before winter comes. Tropical species may not tolerate the cold during chilly autumn nights, unless you keep the tub in a greenhouse, and/or use some form of heating, and/or use isolation material, and/or coverage, to keep the temperature up in the water. Small to medium sized freshwater ponds and tubs may freeze completely to the bottom during a cold winter, which even hardy subtropical fishes do not tolerate. If you are inexperienced with ponds, but want a large pond added to your property, it is preferable to contract a highly reputable and experienced pond company, to help you choose, plan, build and install the pond. This will increase your chances of success, both short term and long term, while helping you to avoid the most common beginner mistakes, in each step of the process. Some pond companies also have optional inspection, cleaning and maintenance services available. If the pond is constructed by a large experienced pond company, with thorough planning and preparation before starting construction, they may use lots of manpower, excavators, delivery trucks and so on, to create a big normal standard pond in a few days. A similar project would probably take months to do, with only manual labour, during free time, for a small family. Handeling tons of big rocks, especially huge boulders, may also be dangerous. Leaving it to the professionals may be safer, if the installation requires the removal/installation of huge boulders. If there is a lake nearby, some pond owners run water from the lake through the pond and back into the lake, to help regulate the water temperature and increase water quality in the pond. However, fish eggs, fish fry and various small fishes from the pond may find their way into the lake, and vice versa. Diseases and pests may also spread into, or out of, the pond through the lake water. Modern ponds can sometimes be designed specifically to let wildlife in and out of the pond.
Such ponds can become dedicated wildlife ponds, often without fishes.
Warning! Some species are banned/restricted, in several countries in the world and several states in the USA. Before acquiring fishes, other animals, or plants for a pond, make sure they are legal to keep in the part of the world where you live. Related external links and references to this chapter:
|
Mass produced 3D backgrounds & inserts styles:There are several brands, of nature inspired 3D backgrounds and inserts, that are commercially produced for aquariums. Sometimes they are made of polyurethane foam, sometimes they are made of resin and sometimes they are made of other materials. Multiple copies of the backgrounds are often created from the same molds and then, usually, handpainted and sold through wholesalers to aquarium shops around the world. Some compaines also allow people to buy directly from them online. Sometimes, the material the backgrounds are made of may be mixed with different color pigments, creating a few color variants from the same base model, that mimick different types of real stones, and/or wood. Here is a short list, with a few examples of such brands, and/or wholesalers of multiple brands:
Commercially produced 3D backgrounds installation/reviews:
|
Bare bottomed styles:
Related external links and references to this chapter:
|
Hybrid fishes styles:There are many cross species hybrids among fishes in the aquarium hobby and fish farming industry. Some are fertile, while others are not. Some are raised for ornamental/petkeeping purposes, while others are created for food consumption, or simply experimentation. Some cross species hybrids have presumed "known" origin, that can be verified by repeating the hybridization. Other "hybrids" are well kept trade secrets, or unknow, with various rumors and theories spreading, although these rumors may sometimes be presented as if they are facts. Some people may claim that a specific fish they see, or sell, is only a color morph of a single species, while other people may claim that the exact same fish is a cross species hybrid, with, or without, sufficient proof to back up their claims. Sometimes local populatons of a presumed single species can have various differences within the same species, sometimes they may be called subspecies. Crossing individuals from different populations may sometimes be called hybridisation, but is usually not called cross species hybridization, unless there are special circumstanses involved. Sometimes it is difficult to draw a clear line between species and subspecies, compared to hybrids between closely related species/subspecies, especially if they have a large natural geographical range, in the wild where they originate from. Sometimes populations have been isolated for long, or short, periods of time and gradually, natually, adapt to their environment through the generations. Sometimes cross species hybrids are unintentionally created, either in nature, or in captivity, but many hybrids in the aquarium hobby/industry are the result of deliberate work/experiments by humans. Some cross species hybrids are the result from the crossing of only two species. Other cross species hybrids have more than two species mixed into their mixed species origin, going back several generations of selective breeding, and/or manipulations. Sometimes, the hybrids may get crossed back with one of the original species, creating mixed hybrid offspring with different ratio of genetics, creating various results. Some hybrids show traits that may seem desirable to some people, so they can be easily sold. Other hybrids that show other traits, that are not wanted, often end up as "culls". Popular cross species hybrid fishes include, for example:
Related external links and references to this chapter:
|
Rainbowfishes & blue eyes styles:Various scientists and fishkeepers are not all in agreement how to group, and/or separate, the family Melanotaeniidae and possibly closely related families, and/or subfamilies. There is a mix of new and old sources on the internet and in books etc. It can be a bit complicated, but that may, perhaps, change in the future, as new scientific discoveries are made. Unfortunately, many natural habitats in the wild are threatened in various ways. For example, sometimes the habitats are destroyed, sometimes it is deforestation, sometimes it is damming of rivers, sometimes it is invasive species, sometimes it is excessive collection for the aquarium industry, sometimes it is fishing with poison, sometimes it is pollution from agriculture/farmland. Some natural wild poulations of fishes are also threatened by hybridisation as humans move fishes about, or change the course of streams and rivers. At the moment (November 1, 2023), according to Wikipedia EN, the family Melanotaeniidae is separated into four different subfamilies: · Madagascar rainbowfishes (Bedotiinae) · Rainbowfishes (Melanotaeniinae) · Blue eyes (Pseudomugilinae) · Sail-fin silversides (Telmatherininae) Other sources may group and separate them in different ways, often with a family called Pseudomugilidae, instead of having the subfamily Pseudomugilinae under the family Melanotaeniidae. Related external links and references to this chapter:
|
Outro comments:This article is still under construction and iteration. I intend to slowly continue updating and adding more examples of freshwater styles to this article, while also iterating and adding more descriptive details, plus more related external links and references. Do you have suggestions regarding freshwater styles, or related links, that you want me to know about, please send me an E-mail. Are you a beginner regarding freshwater aquatics? If so, before you decide on what style you want to try, I suggest reading my article about
|
[ Aquaristic Articles ]
Index
E-mail Max Strandberg