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Freshwater StylesUpdated during April, 2025. |
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Warning! This article includes personal opinions and speculations!
Killitank styles:Some killies may be kept in community aquariums, but most species of killies are best kept one species to each tank. Most killifish enhusiasts develop multiple tank syndrome (MTS). Breeders can send eggs through the "snailmail" to each other. Spawning mops, made from acrylic yarn and a floating cork (or a piece of styrofoam), is commonly used for breeding killies in captivity. The killies may also choose to spawn among the plants, peat, leaves, or coconut husk fibers etc. It is strongly recommended that the tanks should be covered somehow, to prevent the killies from jumping out. A few of the commonly available killies in pet stores: · Blue lyretail (Fundulopanchax gardneri) Killitank branch styles:
Related external links and references to this chapter:
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Biotype, biotopy, or environment type styles:Please, notice the letter "y" in the words biotype and biotopy. Unfortunately, there is a lot of confusion about exactly what to call this niche of naturalistic environment type concept. The words and terms to describe this concept in English are not fully mainstream popularized and fixed yet. Unfortunately, the words to call this concept in English and other languages can be very confusing. It is because of other biological meanings of the same words and also other words that sound almost the same. The concept of a biotype aquarium is similar in many ways to a biotope aquarium. Biotype aquariums are very often confused with a biotope aquariums. Probably, only a minority of aquarists are aware of the concept of biotype aquariums, and/or the geographical limitations of biotope aquariums. Many people confuse them, including many great aquarists and biologists. A biotype aquarium may, perhaps, also be called:
· Biotopy aquarium. In a biotype aquarium, or whatever you prefer to call it, atleast the majority of the fishes and plants should preferably originate from a similar type of water habitat in the wild, with similar type of water parameters and a generally similar naturalistic ecological habitat niche environment type theme. If they do not originate from such an environment, it may still be allowed to include them as replacements, if they look, and/or behave, somewhat similar to other species that may live in the type of environment you want to simulate/emulate. The idea is to stock and decorate a biotype aquarium in a way so that it shares some similarities with a biotope aquarium, even though it may not officially be eligible to be called a biotope aquarium, or does not stricty follow biotope aquascaping competition rules. A biotype aquarium may suffer severe point deduction, or disqualification, as penalty for geographically linked deviations, if submitted to a biotope aquascaping competition. If it would not suffer any such point deduction, or disqualification, then it would be qualified to be called a biotope aquarium and it is then recommended to call it that, instead of a biotype aquarium, since a biotype aquarium is less distinctly geographically defined, compared to a biotope aquarium. There is no definite requirement for a biotype aquarium to look good (aesthetically pleasing to the eye), but there is also no rule against it, so each aquarist is free to choose either way. The purpose of a biotype aquarium may differ depending on your priorities. If the goal happen to include having a beautifully planted layout, a biotype aquarium may share many commonalities with a nature aquarium, planted aquascape style. It is possible for a biotype aquarium to also be a nature aquarium. However, a biotype aquarium may not always use aquarium plants, especially if it is intended to mimick an environment type that may perhaps be without plants in the wild. If the main purpose of the biotype aquarium is to breed fishes, their natural spawning behaviour may get triggered, thanks to the similar conditions in the biotype aquarium compared to their natural environment in the wild. In a biotype aquarium there is not much emphasis on whatever actual geographical position the inhabitants, or decoration (such as plants, wood, various botanicals, rocks, sand and gravel), originate from, unless you yourself choose to limit yourself to make it so. Fishes, plants, amphibians, invertebrates, botanicals (and so on) can be mixed, if they all originate from a general type of natural habitat environment, that somewhat resemble each other's natural environment, even if they originate from different rivers, lakes, or continents. Even if the organisms may be endemic to different locations in nature, if the natural habitats in the different locations have enough similarities, it is allowed to put the organisms together in a biotype aquarium in captivity, if they are otherwise compatible enough in general. If you so choose, you can still optionally limit yourself to a specific continent, lake, river system, or other general broad geographical zone. However, such limitations are volontary, not mandatory, since the idea with a biotype aquarium, unlike a biotope aquarium, is that the inhabitants and decorations do not need to originate from the same location. It is your own choice, if you voluntarily want to limit yourself geographically (and if so, to what extent, or if you only allow a few exceptions), or if you prefer to remain free of such constraints, when setting up and stocking a biotype aquarium. For example, in a very big lake there are probably many distinctly separated habitats, with populations av organisms isolated in specific parts of the lake. In a biotype aquarium, it is permissible to mix species, and/or local population variants, from different parts of the lake, that do not naturally live together in the same exact habitat location in the wild. It is ok to mix fishes from different biotopes in a biotype aquarium, as long as they originate from a generally similar type of environment. A few exceptions can also be allowed, to accomodate fishes that may not fit this profile, as long as they can still adapt to live and thrive in the conditions present in a specific biotype aquarium. The environment in a biotype aquarium should, preferably,
somewhat visually resemble that same mutual general type of natural environment.
There is no geographical emphasis on the origin of the sand, gravel, wood, and/or other decorations.
Parameters such as the water temperature, water flow and general environment type can be important. It is possibe to mix tropical and subtropical species, but it is generally not recommended. Most subtropical species have adapted to a cool season during part of the year, as part of the cycle of the seasons, but subtropical species can usually coexist with tropical species, in warm conditions, during the warm season, if there is high enough oxygen gas O2 concentration in the water. Without chilly water for part of the year, subtropical species may suffer various ailments and behavioral consequenses. It may depend on the exact species, gender and age, what they may become susceptible to, but it may eventually include reproduction related problems, higher risk of contracting diseases and shortened lifespan etc. However, some species that were originally subtropical have been raised in tropical conditions on fishfarms, or may have lived as feral populations in tropical environments, for many generations. This may lead to them partially adapting/evolving to survive in tropical conditions. The same can be said for species with a broad natural distribution range, that may span both tropical and subtropical environments, since there may be local adaptations, within the species. Local adaptations may lead to individuals in those populations becoming better suited to living in the local conditions. Populations of migratory species may also be generally more accomodating to changing different conditions, than populations of isolated stationary species. General environment types could be, for example:
· Fast flowing stream in tropical environment type. Example of an environment type set up, with geographically mixed origin: Loosely based on a generic slow flowing river with driftwood in tropical environment.
Populated with various river dwelling fishes, originating from Central Asia,
West Africa, Eastern Australia and South America.
Planted with plants from Southern Europe and Cental America.
The smooth gravel/sand on the bottom may come from the country where you live.
Decorated with driftwood from North America and rocks from South East Asia.
Warning! Biotype aquariums are, unfortunately, almost always "inaccurately" labeled as biotope aquariums. This confusion is widespread, but especially common when a biotype aquarium is inspired by a specific biotope, lake, or river system. Most of the fishes may come from generally the same geographical area. However, unless ALL of the specific fishes in the aquarium can actually be found living naturally together in the wild, preferably before modern humans started moving fishes all around the world (leading to local changes and establishing invasive feral populations etc.), it is not really a biotope aquarium, from a strict point of view. Even if all fishes accurately originate from the same place, if ALL the species of plants used in the same aquarium can't also be naturally found in the same specific place, in nature, as those fishes, then the aquarium is still not really a biotope aquarium. If the hardscape materials used to scape the aquarium does not at all visually resemble what can be found, in the same natural biotope, that the fishes and plants originate from, it is also questionable if the aquarium is eligible to be called a biotope aquarium. A partially specialized biotype aquarium may, perhaps, be described as:
· Biotope inspired biotype aquarium. Related external links and references to this chapter:
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Hardscape only aquascape styles:In my opinion, a hardscape only aquascape is an aquascape that is designed to look good, like a work of art, without showing living submersed grown plants. Usually, naural materials such as rocks, sand, gravel and driftwood can be used, but there is leeway for using artificial replacements. The materials are carefully chosen, to create a harmonious visual appearance combined together. It is highly preferable to choose only one general type of rock, where all rocks are matching in structure and color, but vary in size. Optionally, inanimate botanicals may be incorporated, such as leaf litter, alder cones, bamboo pipes etc. Aquarium Design Group (ADG) is a company in Texas, USA. Aquascapers from ADG has taken their vision, of a hardscape only aquascape style, into the extreme in reality. ADG made a world wide impact and started influencing the aquascaping community, ever since the first photos from some of their work, using the concept of a hardscape only aquascape style, were published. To plant enthusiasts, a hardscape only aquascape may at first glance seem like an unfinished aquascape.
Many aquascapers may have their green thumb itching to put plants in such an aquascape.
However, if a hardscape only aquascape is designed properly, that urge may subside, somewhat,
after looking at the hardscape only aquascape for a while,
although properly feeling and appreciating the basic raw hardscape only wibe depends on personal preferences.
Plastic plants, and/or other plastic decrations, are up for debate. Plastic decorations may, or may not, be considered to be hardscape, depending on your point of view. However, if plastic plants are used, it will no longer be a "pure" hardscape only aquascape style, but a mixed combination variant with the plastic fintastic styles. Sometimes, ADG may publish photos, and/or videos, of more than one version of almost the same aquarium aquacape. One version may show how it looks without the use of any plastic plants (hardscape only aquascape), but then an other version shows how it can look with plastic plants. Sometimes, ADG may show multiple versions, of how the general impression of the aquascape may change, using different colors of the plastic plants in different photos. In practicality, it also makes sense to be able to change the optional plastic plants whenever you want, but keep the hardscape intact, perhaps to change the aquascape in tune with seasonal changes throughout the year, or adapting the aquascape to a client's wish, and/or matching the colors of the surrounding room, at a specific location. If you are ok with using a mix of artifical and natural hardscape materials, other than plants,
it is also possible to combine hardscape only aquascapes with artificial backgrounds, and/or inserts, either
Emersed living plants are also up for debate, since they may, perhaps, only have their roots somewhere in the system. (Making it an aquaponics system.) It may be "cheating" and not a "pure" hardscape only aquascape style, to use live plants with roots in the water, but it is a great way to remove nitrates and phosphates from the system. If you do not want the live plant roots visible in the aquarium, it is possible to hide and, optionally, keep them in a separate tank, for example in a sump. Theoretically, you could also keep submersed plants, or floating plants, in an other tank, but connected to the hardscape only aquascape, to help remove nitrates and phosphates. Algae scrubbers may also be an alternative means of extracting nutrients from the water, although algae scrubbers are more commonly used in marine saltwater setups, they can also be used in freshwater. Hardscape only aquascapes often use various algae eaters to keep the algae growth in check,
but may also have subdued light, compared to planted aquariums.
More frequent water changes, and/or carefully chosen aquarium algaecides,
may be used with caution (for spot treatment, and/or dilluted in the whole aquarium),
if algae, and/or cyano bacteria, becomes a big problem.
Using some type of The bioload from the inhabitants, in a hardscape only aquascape aquarium,
may increase the nitrates into dangerous levels faster,
compared to the exact same bioload in a planted aquarium, where the plants consume nitrates.
There is a risk involved, if you do not want to do frequent, and/or large, waterchanges,
or use other means to regulary, or continiously, remove nitrates from the system in a hardscape only aquascape aquarium.
It is recommended to keep the bioload down to a manageable level, for example,
by generally keeping a lower number of individual fishes,
or choosing smaller fishes, in the same volume of water, compared to a planted aquarium.
Some people may instead choose to go with a bigger aquarium,
to still be able to keep their desired number and sizes of fishes,
since a large Some positive aspects of a hardscape only aquascapes, without any type of live plants (not even their roots) inside the aquascaped aquarium:
Related external links and references to this chapter:
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Dirted aquarium styles:Waterlogged dirt (soil),
that preferably (but not necessarily) has been mixed with a carefully selected "recipe",
of various nutritious compounds,
is placed and spread out on the bottom of the aquarium,
then The layer above the waterlogged dirt/dirtmix, that is used for Exactly what the best grain size is and exactly how thick the layer of the cap should be, is up for debate,
but normal coarse sand is generally recommended.
Very fine sand, or fine sand, may cause smothering of plant roots,
but the smaller grain size of very fine sand, or fine sand, also allows the cap to be thinner and still do its job,
compared to a cap layer of coarse sand, or very coarse sand, or very fine gravel.
The definition of sand varies depending on what definition system is used,
so what I call It is easier if the cap is made of sand, than of gravel, if you want/need to uproot plants every now and then, since you probably prefer to avoid making a dirty mess in the water. Uprooting the plants may be needed if you want to give them away, selling them, or simply moving/removing them, as they grow and multiply. Only using coarse gravel pebbles, without mixing the pebbles with something else, is not recommended as a cap! Water and dirt/dirtmix may sift, percolate and permeate way too fast between the coarse gravel pebbles. (This makes dissolved nutrients and organic material move too quickly by trickling, or sifting, in the water space channels inside the cap.) If you still want some pebbles, it is recommended to fill in most of the water space channels, in between the pebbles, with additional sand, and/or with very fine gravel. This will help with preventing the dirt/dirtmix and dissolved nutrients from traveling upwards too fast, and also to hinder oxygen gas O2 and uneaten food scraps from traveling downwards too fast. The choice of specific grain size and specific type, of the material used as the cap, may also depend on the preferences of the species of rooted plants, and/or the chosen fishes and invertebrates in the aquarium. Generally, the waterlogged dirt layer is normally suggested to be about one inch (about two to three cm) thick. You can get away with a thinner layer of waterlogged dirt, if you do not plan to keep the aquarium going for more than about a year. However, if you want most of the nutrients in the waterlogged dirt to last for several years, or maybe decades, it is recommended to use a waterlogged dirt layer of normal thickness. You probably want to have a slightly thicker layer of waterlogged dirt in the back of the aquarium, compared to the front of the aquarium. This is because you are more likely to plant the largest rooted plants, that probably benefit the most from the nutrients, in the back of the dirted tank. It is also visually appealing to have the cap sloaping down towards the front of the dirted tank. Some aquarists put the waterlogged dirt into fine mesh filter bags, or put a sheet of fine mesh (mosquito mesh made of plastic) between the waterlogged dirt and the cap. This may help keep the dirt separated if they expect to make significant changes in the future, such as maybe moving the aquarium, or exchanging the cap, or exchanging the dirt/dirtmix. Mesh may also help, somewhat, to keep most of the dirt/dirtmix in place, if some inhabitant suddenly diggs a hole in the cap. Generally, for the cap to function as intended, it is suggested to be approximately:
A general rule of thumb is to make the cap atleast twice as deep/thick as the waterlogged dirt layer on the same spot in the tank. If you have chosen to make the waterlogged dirt layer deeper/thicker at the back inside of an aquarium, it is logical to also make the cap deeper/thicker there, while making the cap shallower/thinner in the front, creating a slope. It is common to avoid putting waterlogged dirt all the way to the front panel, to avoid needing to see a deep/thick cap layer visible in the front. A sloped surface of the cap also helps with alleviating the problem with the viewing angle parallax distorsion, when viewing the aquarium diagonally from above thru the front panel. If the dirt under the cap is more nutrient rich than normal, you should make the cap generally deeper/thicker than normal. Alternatevely, if the dirt under the cap is relatively low in nutrients (lean soil), the cap can be made generally slightly shallower/thinner than previously suggested. However, you should also consider the length of the roots of the specific plants you intend to use, since the longer and more massive the roots of the plants may grow, the deeper/thicker the cap should be, to accomodate those roots. The more/faster water circulation you have in the tank, the deeper/thicker the cap should be. The more disturbance from fishes and other animals digging/burrowing in the cap, the deeper/thicker the cap should be. The more often you intend to uproot and move plants from the cap, the deeper/thicker the cap should be, to avoid disturbing the dirt layer underneath the cap. If you are unsure if a shallow/thin cap, or a thick/deep cap is optimal for your system, for example if you use a mixture of different sized silt/sand/gravel as the cap, or have difficulty estimating the concentration of nutrients is in the dirt, it is (generally) better to add a bit more to the cap to be on the safe side, than accidentally making it too shallow/thin, to prevent dirt related problems from occuring. Having the cap be deeper/thicker than necessary will, unfortunately, slightly decrease the water volume in the system, while also adding more weight to the system and may also look a bit unsightly. To compensate for the water volume that is lost from accomodating the dirt and the cap, you may want to use a slightly taller aquarium, compared to other freshwater styles, to end up with the same amount of swimming space and water volume left, for the inhabitants and decorations etc. The cost to buy bags of the material for the cap may also be an issue, if you don't have access to a free/cheap, source. A deep/thick enough cap prevents excessive oxygen gas O2 (in the open water column), from reaching down into the dirt/dirtmix. This creates an anaerobic and anoxic environment in the dirt/dirtmix. Anoxic and anaerobic microbial life forms live in the dirt/dirtmix. Rooted plants can use their roots to extract dissolved nutrients, that slowly and continiously perculate into the cap from the dirt/dirtmix below the cap. The cap prevents excessive nutrients from leaking directly up into the water column above the cap. This prevents algae and cyano bacteria, above the cap, from directly being able to take advantage of the nutrients from the dirt/dirtmix, creating a clear advantage to the rooted plants. Normally, the rooted plants should initially be planted only in the cap, not in the layer of dirt/dirtmix. If a very nutrient rich dirtmix is used (that should be combined with a deep/thick cap), then any plants that have been planted with their roots directly into that very nutrient rich dirtmix, will most likely soon begin to rot and turn black from their roots and up. Some people still choose to plant the roots of the plants directly in the dirt, but this usually only works if very lean soil/dirt and a very shallow/thin cap is used. This is not normally a recommended way of doing dirted tanks for a display tank, since with a very shallow cap and plants rooted in the very lean soil/dirt, it will create an unsightly dirty mess in the system when doing normal plant maintenance, whenever that requires uprooting some of the plants. However, if your main goal is not to create a beautiful display tank, but instead is only to raise plants and you do not care about how dirty the tank looks, or if you are willing to siphon, and/or use a net to scoop out the dislodged dirt, it may still be a valid option. Dirted aquarium styles are also known as dirted tanks, Walstad tanks, Walstad style,
or the Father Fish (Louis Foxwell) and other aquarists have made adjustments and continue to try to make improvements,
while spreading their tips, personal conclusions, theories and opinions on the Internet about dirted tanks.
Some people that have been greatly inspired by Father Fish and strictly follow his advice when setting up dirted tanks,
may sometimes call it using the Father Fish style Often, part of the goal of this kind of setup is to let the aquarium develop a food web,
then let it mostly take care of itself.
It will become like a diverse miniature eco system, a slice of nature, with a diverse microfauna
(many different tiny critters and microscopic animals), similar to a natural body of water outside in nature.
Fallen leaves and pieces of wood may be added to the dirted aquarium, if you aim to mimic a biotope, or biotype,
that requires it.
Mulm from leaves and plants and sludge from organic materials,
including molts from invertebrates, slowly precipitates and trickles down trough the sand.
Over time, this will help to replenishing the soil underneath the sandcap.
Usually, ths type of Fish fry and small fishes, usually, find lots of small living organisms to eat in dirted aquariums, making it easier to raise fish fry into juveniles, without having to very frequently feed the fish fry yourself, as long as you don't overpopulate the tank. Aquarists with dirted aquariums, that have comparatively low fish bioload, usually only top up water, to replace the water that evaporates. They normally try to avoid doing actual water changes, or only do small partial water changes sparingly. Some dirted aquarium keepers may occasionally do a waterchange, usually with rainwater, or RO/DI water, to trigger some fishes to spawn. Dirted aquarium keepers, usually, prioritize enjoyment and naturalistic stable aquariums, with less maintenance work, compared to aquarists who prefer most other styles. Some aquarists keep many dirted aquariums, since each aquarium doesn't require much time, or effort, to maintain. Dirted aquarium keepers may get more time to enjoy their aquariums, when they feel like it, but mostly sit back and relax, or periodically get busy with other time demanding things in their life, without having to feel guilty, compared to other aquarium keepers using other freswater styles that, usually, require a stricter maintenance schedule to work. It is possible to add additional filtration, aeration, and/or circulation of the water in a dirted aquarium. It is a personal choice how much technology each aquarist want to use, if any. Some dirted aquarists choose to try to avoid advanced technology and rely on nature as much as possible. This is especially the case in locations where the local electricity power grid is not always reliable, because of frequent power outages etc. However, adding artifical light on a timer and perhaps some minimal filtration, an airstone, a heater, and/or sometimes connecting several aquariums together, can be benificial depending on the situation. Connecting individual aquariums to each other into a system, if done in a good way, can lead to water quality stability benefits. Warning! In dirted aquariums, I suggest to avoid keeping fishes that are extreme diggers, and/or often burrow themselves very deep into the substrate. Furthermore, if you happen to have circulating water and the cap is made from very fine sand, or fine sand, be careful how you direct the water flow in the tank. The water current may move the very fine sand, or fine sand. This may diminish the thickness of the cap (of very fine sand, or fine sand), above the dirt/dirtmix in certain spots, where the water current is strong. In a bad case, the water flow may excavate a deep crater in the cap. It may even expose and dislodge the dirt/dirtmix below the cap. This is not allowed/supposed to happen in a dirted aquarium with a cap. Breaching the cap in this way is unsightly, it may also potentially create a dangerous situation for the inhabitants in the aquarium. It may cause various problems, especially if dirtmix enriched with concentrated nutrients is used. However, the risks involved during a breach of the cap may be much lower if, instead of very nutrient enriched dirtmix, only very lean potting soil is used, without additional nutrient compounds in the dirt, or if such compounds have only moderately/sparingly been added to the dirtmix. Related external links and references to this chapter:
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Mud/clay/earthen pond style:Various types of manmade mud ponds have historically been used for aquaculture, agriculture, and/or water reservoirs, for thousands of years. Mud ponds are also known as clay ponds, or earthen ponds. There are also naturally formed mud ponds, that may, or may not, have been significantly modified by humans. Mud ponds may have low visibility, mainly because of algae and stirred up dirt, mulm and mud/clay particles suspended in the water column. If there is driftwood, and/or fallen leaves in the pond, the visibility may also be affected by tannins staining the water. Tiny animals and microbes in the water may also affect visibility to see the fishes. Koi are often grown out in mud ponds, especially in Japan, by koi fish farmers.
Mud ponds are also often used by other fish farmers,
either for raising fishes such as carp, tilapia, snakeheads, clarias, panga and
Sometimes the walls of a mud pond may be lined with sandbags,
probably filled with excavated clay, sand, soil and rocks from the same location where the mud pond was constructed.
This helps keeping the structure of the mud pond intact longer from erosion, so the mud pond can have a steep edge,
beeing much deeper right at the edge of the mud pond, compared to a normal natural mud pond with a gradual slope.
Usually, fish farmers use various modern ponds (not mud ponds) to breed, select and observe the fishes, then after some time, as they run out of valuable space in the modern ponds, they eventually move the fishes to large inexpensive mud ponds, as the fishes grow bigger and bigger. However, fish farmers may also use modern ponds, usually in enclosures, green houses, or indoors, if it gets too cold to use the mud ponds outside during winter. (When/if a sheet of plastic covering over the mud pond is no longer enough, to preserve enough heat in the water, to support the fishes well being, and/or to fully support the desired annual growth rate.) Some people use mud ponds for their domesticated ducks, and/or other birds that enjoy water. Some people use mud ponds to store water, then use the water to water gardens, or agricultural fields. Mud ponds can also be dedicated wildlife ponds, often without fishes.
Before making a mud pond, inspect the earth soil/clay composition, the normal groundwater level fluctuations and water chemistry for the location. Make sure the location is suitable for a mud pond, before starting to build the mud pond. If it is not very suitable, it may be better to go with a modern pond style instead. If your water is good, but the earth is not, but you still want a mud pond, you may have to spend more money. Excavating a huge hole, then adding large amounts of clay from somewhere else, may get expensive. You may prefer to "cheat" and simply add a little mud/clay into a modern pond, for the presumed benefits of mud/clay to the inhabitants. An other compromise between a mud pond and a modern pond, is to use a special type of pond liner, that is meant to work together with bentonite clay, instead of a normal pond liner. Warning! Some species are banned/restricted, in several countries in the world and several states in the USA. Before acquiring fishes, other animals, or plants for a pond, make sure they are legal to keep in the part of the world where you live. Related external links and references to this chapter:
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Undergravel filter (UGF) styles:Undergravel filters can be spread out throughout the whole bottom of the aquarium/tub/pond, or only a part of the bottom, or in a container etc. Depending on your budget and aquarium inhabitant requirements, undergravel filters can be used with normal aquarium gravel, or coral pebbles, or other types of filtermedia/substrate such as burnt clay granules/pebbles, for example ECS (Easy Care Substrate). Normal maintenance of an undergravel filter is, usually, done by using a gravel vacuum hose on a portion of the gravelbed during normal regular water changes.
Related external links and references to this chapter:
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Hybrid fishes styles:There are some cross species hybrids among fishes in the aquarium hobby and fish farming industry. Some are fertile, while others are not. Some are raised for ornamental/petkeeping purposes, while others are created for food consumption, or simply experimentation. Some cross species hybrids have presumed "known" origin, that can be verified by repeating the hybridization. Other "hybrids" are well kept trade secrets, or unknow, with various rumors and theories spreading, although these rumors may sometimes be presented as if they are facts. Some people may claim that a specific fish they see, or sell, is only a color morph/mutation of a single species, while other people may claim that the exact same fish is a cross species hybrid, with, or without, sufficient reasonable scientiffic proof to back up their claims. This often makes it difficult to differentiate scientifficly derived information from opinions, lies, myths, rumors, feelings, theories and logical speculations. There are plenty of people that market their fishes in hyped up ways. People often make up names for the fishes that can make the fishes easier to sell and notice/remember, by associating them with more expensive species, and/or exotic animals, and/or mythical creatures, and/or aliens, and/or popular fictional characters (from comic books, movies etc.), and/or valuable materials (precious metals, gemstones), and/or flowers etc. Often, such marketing is benign, but not always. Sometimes, it can be interpreted as a deception/fraud that may create various problems when people are fooled/scammed. Some breeders and retailers do not want to share their money making secrets, but they may spread misinformation. Sometimes they themselves may not know the full truth, but mixing guesses, truth and lies can help them hold on to their "power", keep people guessing about the mystery and "up the hype". In various ancient folklore and fantasy stories, it is occasionally mentioned that knowing the true name of something gives you power over it. Similar to saying that knowledge is power and can lead to victory, lack of important knowledge can lead to lack of success, or defeat/disaster.
DNA testing can be complicated and expensive, but is sometimes used to verify the genetic identity of a fish. However, DNA testing of fishes is, usually, only available/affordable to scientists and wealthy people. It is not (yet) easily available for normal/frugal hobbyist fishkeepers. Maybe DNA testing of fishes and DNA data banks of fishes will be more conviniently accessable in the future, but until then we may have to continue doing educated guesses, when trying to verify the ancestry of fishes with unknown/uncertain presumed/possible hybrid origin/pedigree/provenance. However, for various reasons, there will always be some level of uncertainty, even with DNA testing. Different local populatons of a presumed single species can sometimes have various differences within the same species. Sometimes, the differences may be clear enough to divide the populations into two, or more, subspecies. Creating offspring from the combination of individuals originating from different populations, that have been separated geographically for a very long period of time (spanning countless generations), may sometimes be called hybridization, but is usually not called cross species hybridization, unless there are special circumstanses. Sometimes it is difficult to draw a clear line between species and subspecies, compared to hybrids between closely related species/subspecies/ecotypes. This is especially difficult to determine if they have a large natural geographical range, in the wild, where they originate from. Sometimes populations have been isolated for long, or short, periods of time and gradually, natually, adapt to their environment through the generations and become ecotypes suited for their environment. Sometimes cross species hybrids are unintentionally created, either in nature, or in captivity, but many hybrids in the aquarium hobby/industry are the result of deliberate work/experiments by humans. Some cross species hybrids are the result from the crossing of only two species. Other cross species hybrids have more than two species mixed into their multiple species origin, going back several generations of selective breeding, and/or other manipulations. Sometimes, the hybrids may get crossed back with one of the original species, creating mixed hybrid offspring with different ratio of genetics, creating various results. Some hybrids show traits that may seem desirable to some people, so they can be easily sold. Other hybrids that show other traits, that are not wanted, often end up as "culls". Popular cross species hybrid fishes include, for example:
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Outro comments:This article is still under construction and iteration. I intend to slowly continue updating and adding more examples of freshwater styles to this article, while also iterating and adding more descriptive details, plus more related external links and references. Do you have suggestions regarding freshwater styles, or related links, that you want me to know about, please send me an E-mail. Are you a beginner regarding freshwater aquatics? If so, before you decide on what style you want to try, I suggest reading my article about
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